Details Swimsuit Sewing Patterns

When sewing swimsuits, choosing the right pattern is crucial for achieving the perfect fit, style, and functionality. Below is a breakdown of the key details to consider when selecting or working with swimsuit sewing patterns.

1. Swimsuit Styles and Versions

One-Piece: Traditional and timeless, offering full coverage. Look for variations like plunge necklines, open backs, or added details like ruffles or ties.

Two-Piece Bikini: Typically includes a top and bottom. Variations may include triangle tops, bandeaus, halter necks, high-rise or low-rise bottoms.

Tankini: A blend between a bikini and one-piece, featuring a tank-style top and bikini bottoms. Great for more coverage while still allowing for flexibility.

Rash Guard: A sporty style that includes a fitted top (with long or short sleeves) and bottoms, offering extra sun protection and coverage.

2. Pattern Versions

Many swimsuit patterns come with multiple versions or variations. These can include:

Back Tie: A feature that adds style and adjustability.

High-Waisted Bottoms: Provide more coverage and a retro vibe.

Crop Top: Often designed for sporty styles, offering a secure fit for active wear.

Low-Rise Bottoms: For a more traditional bikini look.

3. Sizing and Fit

Standard vs. Custom Sizing: Some patterns offer standard sizing, while others may provide guidance for custom sizing based on your measurements.

Bust Support: Patterns may include options for built-in bras, underwires, or shelf bras to provide extra support.

Adjustability: Look for patterns that offer adjustable straps, ties, or elastic bands to help fine-tune the fit.

4. Fabric and Notions

Fabric: Swimsuits require fabrics with a high percentage of stretch, such as spandex, lycra, or elastane blends. Look for patterns that specify the required stretch percentage.

Lining: Many patterns will call for a lining fabric, often a lightweight, breathable, and quick-drying material.

Elastic: Essential for the leg openings, waistbands, and straps to ensure a secure fit. Make sure to use swimwear elastic that is resistant to chlorine and saltwater.

Notions: Depending on the pattern, you may need additional items like underwires, cups, or closure hardware (e.g., hook-and-eye closures).

When it came to figuring out which size I was going to make I, of course, used the sizing chart on the pattern as a guide.  My body measurements are, bust 32”, waist 26” Hips 36” which put me at a size 0 for the top and a size 4 for the bottoms.    I cut the bottoms first and when it came to cutting out the top, I realised that the size 0 looked rather small for me so I decided to cut a size 4 instead to give me more room to manoeuvre (I hate anything feeling too tight!)

I also decided to raise the scoop in the back pattern piece to meet the front scoop as the pattern was drafted slightly too low for my liking and I thought I would feel more comfortable this way.

So, once my toile was all cut out, I got to sewing up.  The actual process, on paper, is very simple.  Side seams, crotch seams, elastic, waistband – done!! Sewing the side seams was all fine and I sewed them straight on the overlocker, but I did find inserting the elastic in to be slightly fiddly at first.  The elastic measurements given in the pattern don’t allow for much stretching which worried me but I later found out that too much stretching isn’t needed anyway as the elastic is mainly required to keep the legs in place nicely.

So, with a bit of practice sewing the elastic as closely to the edges as I could, I got there in the end.  The waistband elastic is sewn into a ring before being inserted into the waistband itself and attached as one piece.  Also fiddly at first but actually a nice way to do things as there is no threading elastic through the casing to do – one of my sewing pet hates!

The top is constructed in pretty much the same way as the bottoms with elastic being attached to the neckline and armholes.  The top hem band is also attached in the same way as the waistband to the bottoms.  Once the elastic has been attached it’s then turned under to the inside and either topstitched with zigzag or twin needled to finish.

I was pleased to note having finished my toile that the bottoms fit really nicely, no gaping, not too tight and I loved how high rise they were – a nice lot of tummy coverage there which is what I like!

The top however, needed a little more length to it in order for me to feel comfortable and covered enough so I made a note to add an inch to the hem on the back and front next time.  I’m, very glad that I opted for my size 4 rather than 0 as a 0 would definitely have been rather snug!

For my ‘proper’ version, I bought some lovely navy swimwear fabric and ivory swimwear lining from Sew Me Sunshine, this was very reasonably priced and I would highly recommend it as it was lovely to sew with.

I made up this version in exactly the same way as my toile with my extra inch of length added to the back and front of the top.  This time I decided to twin needle finish the elastic openings for a neater touch.

I really wanted to add a flounce around the neckline of this version, so I had a little play around with that.  To make this flounce I measured around the neckline and then found something around the house which measured this length or more in circumference (a place mat did the job nicely in this case).  I drew around this circle and then marked another circle around the outside of this approx. 8 cm (this was just by eye and based on how low I wanted the flounce to fall).  I then cut this circle of fabric out and then attached it all around the neckline of my top.

5. Sewing Techniques

• Seams: Patterns will often guide you through sewing with stretch stitches or using a serger for durable and flexible seams.
• Elastic Insertion: Swimsuit patterns typically include instructions for attaching elastic to ensure it lies flat and fits snugly without causing discomfort.
• Topstitching: This technique is often used to secure elastic or create decorative finishes on swimsuits.

 

6.Pattern Customization

• Length Adjustments: Many patterns allow for adjusting the length of the torso, legs, or straps.
• Mix and Match: Some patterns are designed to allow you to mix and match tops and bottoms from different styles or versions.
• Adding Details: Consider patterns that offer optional details like ruching, ruffles, or contrasting bands.

So on the whole I’m very pleased with my first venture into swimwear making, I’m so glad to have given it a go and it wasn’t nearly as scary as I had thought it might be.  I’m not sure sewing with lycra and elastic will ever be my favourite but I tell you I felt more comfortable and secure in this swimsuit than I did in any of my other ready to wear swim wear so it was well worth the effort in the end.  It even stood up to some pretty scary slides at a waterpark we visited so I’m very pleased.