Sleeveless Blouse

Step 1: Trace the Bodice Block

Start by tracing the front and back pieces of your dartless bodice block. Since this is a sleeveless design, you'll only need the bodice pattern. Ensure that the block fits well around your bust and waist.

Step 2: Modify the Neckline

• Choose Your Neckline: In this example, a wide V-neck is used. If you're opting for a neckline without an opening (like a keyhole), make sure it's wide enough for your head to pass through easily.
• Measure: Compare the neckline measurement to half of your head circumference. Ensure the neckline is larger than half your head measurement so it can slip over your head.
• Match Front and Back Necklines: Ensure that the front and back neckline measurements align at the shoulder seams. This ensures a clean finish when sewing the shoulder seams.

Step 3: Create a Dropped Shoulder

• Extend the Shoulder: Extend the shoulder line by about 2 cm on both the front and back bodice pieces.
• Adjust the Shoulder Line: Curve the extended shoulder line slightly downward from the original shoulder tip, ensuring the front and back shoulders are identical.
• Connect to the Armhole: Extend the new shoulder line to the armhole, creating a smooth transition.

Step 4: Lengthen the Back Hem

• Extend the Back Hem: Lengthen the center-back (c-back) line to make the back hem slightly longer than the front hem, giving the blouse a modern, dipped-back look.
• Straighten the Front Hem: Keep the front hem straight, and create a continuous line between the front and back hem.

Step 5: Adjust for Armhole Gaping

• Add a Dart to the Armhole: To prevent gaping at the armhole, add a small dart just above the armhole notch. This dart should be about 1 cm wide and end at the bust point.
• Rotate the Dart: Draw a line from the armhole dart to the side seam where you’d like the dart to end up. Cut along this line, and rotate the dart from the armhole to the side seam. Adjust the armhole line to smooth it out.
• Re-center the Dart: Add paper to cover the gap created by the dart rotation. Re-center the dart, placing it 3-4 cm away from the bust point.

Step 6: Add Side Slits

• Mark the Slits: If you'd like to add side slits, mark a notch on the side seams where you want the slit to start.
• Decorative Seam: For a decorative touch, you can cut the front piece twice and add a seam at the center front (c-front).

Step 7: Customize Further

Now that you have the basic sleeveless blouse pattern, you can customize it further:

• Change the Neckline: Experiment with different neckline shapes (e.g., scoop, boat neck).
• Adjust the Length: Make the blouse longer or shorter, depending on your preference.
• Relocate the Dart: Move the dart to a different position, such as the waist or shoulder.
• Add Sleeves: Consider adding cap sleeves or flutter sleeves for a different look.
• Include a Collar: Add a collar to give the blouse a more formal appearance.
• Incorporate Buttons: Add a button placket to the front for a classic touch.

 

You can easily make more variations on this same blouse: change the neckline shape, the blouse length, the dart position, the shoulder line length, add sleeves, add a collar, add buttons…